rssTsukiji Market
(This is a post that Patrick started two years ago and never finished because he cared so much about Tsukiji and it was turning into an opus. I just found it, so I decided to finish it and post it)
Tsukiji, the world’s largest fishmarket, is a must-see for any gourmand visiting Tokyo. 90% of the Tokyo’s fish, along with a smaller percentage of its produce, moves through this market.
The market itself is divided into two distinct areas. The inner market, where the famed tuna auctions occur and the market’s hundreds of wholesalers have their stalls, is the true heart of Tsukiji. Surrounding the inner market is, I hope you’re sitting down for this, the outer market. These are retailers who, in addition to selling fish from the inner market in more manageable quantities, also sell knives, dry goods and other restaurant necessities. The outer market is also home to dozens of restaurants.
Tsukiji is a wholesale market. Wholesalers purchase fish at auction and directly from suppliers and then sell it to large buyers. The stalls of the inner market have a dazzling array of fish and fish products on display. To run a stall, you need to purchase a Tsukiji wholesaler’s license. This license doesn’t entitle you to a specific stall location, however. At irregular intervals a lottery is held and everyone in the market shifts around. This is even more of a hassle than it seems, since the stalls are not of a uniform shape or size. Since the market itself is el-shaped, stalls in the middle of the market are smaller and more awkwardly shaped, distorted by the curve of the building. As a result, wholesalers who win good stalls in the lottery pay extra rent, while those who get bad stalls receive a monthly subsidy.
The wholesalers buy much of their goods at auctions, held early in the morning. While there are auctions for everything from sea urchin to live fish, the most famous auctions are the tuna auctions. These auctions happen between 5:30 and 5:40AM every morning that the market is open. A side of particularly tasty tuna can fetch over $10,000, so this is serious business. Until April 2005, you could walk among the huge sides of tuna along with the would-be buyers.
Since April, however, tourists have been restricted to specially cordoned off areas. This takes a large amount of the fun out of the whole thing, but it was apparently necessary, since the auctions were becoming overrun with tourists. The tuna auctions typically start between 5:30 and 5:40AM—if you happen to be up, thanks to jetlag, it’s probably still worth a visit. But I wouldn’t ruin a good night’s sleep for it. Especially since the market’s stalls are open until lunch-time.
As you walk into the inner market, the first buildings you see—open, cavernous warehouse-type dealies—will look disappointingly empty. But if you keep walking through these delivery areas, you’ll eventually reach the market stalls. Almost all of the stalls in the inner market are open until lunch-time, so even if you don’t get up at the crack of dawn, you can still survey the various wares on offer. When you first enter the market proper, you’re likely to be disappointed. The cavernous open buildings will be mostly empty, with only a handful of trucks picking up boxes of fish and produce. But if you keep walking, you’ll quickly be rewarded. You’ll find an array of fish, shellfish and other marine products here. Look around, but be mindful of the fact that it’s someone else’s office.
Before or after your market visit, we highly recommend grabbing a sushi breakfast. Even if the sound of sushi in the morning doesn’t seem appetizing, if you like sushi, it’s a once in a lifetime experience. There’s nothing like sitting in a cramped restaurant, elbow-to-elbow with your neigbors, while you eat sush and sip beer. The prices and the cuts of fish you’ll get make the whole experience worth it.